F2F Class Notes 5th February (Tony) [W]

more better much better

Original –

Third part is about M-list.
 Based on the current M-list, we hope to add or adjust some sizes.
1, Across chest is helpful to control front A/H shape. So suggest to add it.
2, Suggest to remove the front zipper length on m-list. Because the size for zipper length is not exactly the size on pattern. There should be some sewing ease when attaching the zipper. So the zipper length is always shorter than the size on pattern. Especially for padding style, the ease may be about 2cm. That means the zipper length will be about 2cm shorter. We could add the size for zipper position from bottom or top to control this part.
3, For the shoulder part, some M-list require the size shoulder to shoulder, while others require the shoulder seam length. We prefer to the first one, shoulder to shoulder size. Because it can control the shoulder position more effectively.
4, For pockets, it is better to have size for its position. This is appreciated for us when checking sample.
 I have met the blazer with the under button off center of front. Then the bottom size should be measured with the button opening. Otherwise the garment size will be smaller than M-list. So it is better to mark it on M-list.
 This style has gathering on the back. On the garment, the A/H depth is always smaller than required. It is due to that the bottom of a/h is lifted after finishing the gathering. For this kind of style, we suggest to measure the a/h circle or the a/h depth at front from inner shoulder.
 When shoulder forward, it is better to measure the shoulder width at the actual shoulder points i/o the shoulder seams. This is appreciated because it is much easier when measuring on garment.
 I put out this issue just hoping to get some idea from your side.
The last thing I want to discuss is about the thread. We usually use three kinds of thread: spun, core-spun and filament. I sum up the thread we usually used. According to our development, two important things I want to say: 1, the thicker thread than ticket 30# is really hard to sew on the normal machine. So we don’t suggest using ticket 25# for some ladies’ styles. 2, For silk material esp. habutai, we just suggest to use ticket 200# filament thread, because thicker thread will bring badly snagging along stitches.

That is all about my share. Welcome feedback from anyone. Thanks for your attention.

Correction –

The Third part is about M-list.
 Based on the current M-list, we hope to add and adjust some sizes.
1, Across the chest is helpful to control front A/H shape. So I suggest to add it.
2, Suggest to remove the front zipper length on m-list. Because the size for zipper length is not exactly the size on the pattern. There should be some sewing slack when attaching the zipper. So the zipper length is always shorter than the size on pattern. Especially for padding style, the slack may be about 2cm. That means the zipper length will be about 2cm shorter. We could include the measurement from the bottom of the garment to the zipper.
3, For the shoulder part, some M-lists require the size from shoulder to shoulder, while others require the shoulder seam length. We prefer the first one, from shoulder to shoulder size. Because it can control the shoulder position more effectively.
4, For pockets, it is better to have size for its position. This is appreciated for us when checking samples.
 I have seen a blazer with the bottom button off center. Then the bottom size should be measured with the bottom one unbuttoned. Otherwise the bottom size will be smaller than the M-list. So it is better to mark it on the M-list.
 This style has gathering on the back. On the garment, the A/H depth is always smaller than required. It is because the bottom of the a/h is lifted after finishing the gathering. For this kind of style, we suggest to measure the a/h circle or the a/h depth at the front.
 With a shoulder seam forward, it is better to measure the shoulder width at the actual shoulder points instead of at the shoulder seams. This is appreciated because it is much easier when you’re measuring the shoulder width.
 I brought up this issue just hoping to get some ideas from your side.
The last thing I want to discuss is about the thread. We usually use three kinds of thread: spun, core-spun and filament. Here are some details about the threads we usually use. According to our development, First the threads thicker than ticket #30 are really hard to sew on the normal machine. So we don’t suggest using ticket #25 for some ladies’ styles. 2, For silk materials esp. habutai, we strongly suggest using ticket #200 filament thread, because thicker thread will snag the fabric badly along stitches.

That is all I want to share. I Welcome feedback from anyone. Thanks for your attention.