F2F Class Notes 4th February (Tony) [W]

Vocabulary

give a presentation

powerpoint – is a kind of presentation

eg: “I have a powerpoint presentation i want to review with you.”

How are you doing?    I’m fine.       I’m doing fine.      I’m ok.     I’m good

What are you doing?     I’m trying to find a book.

Original –

P11 Technician Workshop

Hello Everyone. I am Louritta Zhao, from Shanghai China P11 Woven team. Today I am so happy to join the technician workshop, and have the chance to communicate with all of you.

According to Titti’s email, I summarized the general issues during my daily works, and prepared the PPT to share my thought .

First part is about the A/W. IN FACT, MOST OF OUR P11 WOVEN’S A/WS WE RECEIVED ARE GREAT, ESPECIALLY FROM LADIES’,IT CAN BE SAID “PERFECT”.
 WHAT IS GREAT A/W? YOU CAN SEE, THERE IS CLEAR SCKECH WITH DESCRIPTION FOR THE TOPSTITCHES, POCKET POSITION AND OTHER DESIGNING POINTS. THE RED WORDS ARE FOR THE UPDATED INFORMATION. IT IS VERY APPRECIATED TO HIGHLIGHT THEM.
VERY CLEAR ON DETAILES.
ALSO ABOUT DETAILS. THE ACTUAL IMAGES FOR SPECIAL DESIGN IS IMPORTANT AND HELPFUL WHEN DEVELOPMENT.
 NEXT, I WANT TO TALK ABOUT THE INSPIRATION OF DESIGN. PICTURE IS WELCOME. IT COULD DIRECTLY SHOW DESIGNING’S FEELING, AND GUIDE THE SUPPLIER TO GET DIRECTION WHEN DEVELOPMENT.
SUCH AS FROM THE DOWN IMAGE, THE SUPPLIER WILL KNOW HOW PUFFY IT REQUIRED.
FROM THE WASHED GARMENT IMAGES, THEY WILL HAVE DIRECTIONS TO CONTROL THE WASHING CONDITIONS.
FOR BLAZER, HOW TO SELECT SHOULDER PAD IS ALWAYS CONFUSING THE SUPPLIER. IF THERE IS AN IMAGE ABOUT THE SHOULDER SHAPE, THEY WILL GET THE DIRECTION.
FOR BLAZER’S FINISH, IRONING PRECESS WILL CREAT DIFFERENT EFFECTS, ESPECIALLY FOR THE LAPEL. AT THE LEFT PICTURE, IT REQUIRE TO STOP IRONING AT THE 1/3 TOP POSITION. WHILE THE RIGHT ONE REQUIRES MUCH DOWN. WHICH KIND OF EFFECT DO YOU LIKE? PLS JUST SHOW US BY IMAGE ON THE A/W.
NUTRUAL SEAM OR SEAM W/ SOME PUCKERING IS ONE OF OUR P11’S CHARACTERS FOR OUTDOOR WEAR. FOR THIS POINT, PICUTRES ARE MUCH BETTER THAN ONLY WORDS AS WELL. BETTER TO HAVE THE IMAGE OF SIMILAR FABRIC, BECAUSE THE SAME PUCKERING VOLUME ON DIFFERENT FABRIC WILL LOOK DIFFERENT.

Second part is about the pattern.
 This is a set of pattern for men’s coat. It is really great. You can see, it involved all the information. What I want to emphasize is the fusing pattern. Most of our other are without fusing pattern. We think it should be added. Because fusing is really important for the garment. Moreover quilting line on the under collar is very helpful for sewing.
 Next, some tips on pattern to discuss.
1, When shoulder forward, it is better to keep the actual shoulder line on pattern. This is important for us to measure the shoulder width and neck width.
2, This page is about the slv cap. When topstitches is on a/h, there is no need any ease on the slv cap. If there is, the slv cap will be strange with bad puckering after topstitched.
For the style with dropped slv., no need ease as well. Otherwise, the slv cap will be bumped here.
3, Here is the slv cuff. The left one is from men’s shirt. You can see the buttonhole on slit and cuff are aligned in pattern. So on the final garment, it is straight. While the right one is not aligned. And the slit on garment is not straight. Definitely, the left one is much better, right?
4, The last one is about the pin hem on shirts. If the pin hem is sewn as one complete line from front to back, then the right pattern with smooth curve at side is better, and easier to sew. The left one will have crease after sewing due to the angle on pattern. So the right one is better one.

Third part is about M-list.
 Based on the current M-list, we hope to add or adjust some sizes.
1, Across chest is helpful to control front A/H shape. So suggest to add it.
2, Suggest to remove the front zipper length on m-list. Because the size for zipper length is not exactly the size on pattern. There should be some sewing ease when attaching the zipper. So the zipper length is always shorter than the size on pattern. Especially for padding style, the ease may be about 2cm. That means the zipper length will be about 2cm shorter. We could add the size for zipper position from bottom or top to control this part.
3, For the shoulder part, some M-list require the size shoulder to shoulder, while others require the shoulder seam length. We prefer to the first one, shoulder to shoulder size. Because it can control the shoulder position more effectively.
4, For pockets, it is better to have size for its position. This is appreciated for us when checking sample.
 I have met the blazer with the under button off center of front. Then the bottom size should be measured with the button opening. Otherwise the garment size will be smaller than M-list. So it is better to mark it on M-list.
 This style has gathering on the back. On the garment, the A/H depth is always smaller than required. It is due to that the bottom of a/h is lifted after finishing the gathering. For this kind of style, we suggest to measure the a/h circle or the a/h depth at front from inner shoulder.
 When shoulder forward, it is better to measure the shoulder width at the actual shoulder points i/o the shoulder seams. This is appreciated because it is much easier when measuring on garment.
 I put out this issue just hoping to get some idea from your side.
The last thing I want to discuss is about the thread. We usually use three kinds of thread: spun, core-spun and filament. I sum up the thread we usually used. According to our development, two important things I want to say: 1, the thicker thread than ticket 30# is really hard to sew on the normal machine. So we don’t suggest using ticket 25# for some ladies’ styles. 2, For silk material esp. habutai, we just suggest to use ticket 200# filament thread, because thicker thread will bring badly snagging along stitches.

That is all about my share. Welcome feedback from anyone. Thanks for your attention.

Correction –

P11 Technician Workshop

Hello Everyone. I am Louritta Zhao, from Shanghai China P11 Woven team. Today I am so happy to join the technician workshop, and have the chance to communicate with all of you.

According to Titti’s agenda, I summarized the general issues during my work, and prepared the presentation to share my thoughts .

First part is about the A/W. IN FACT, MOST OF the P11 WOVEN’S A/WS WE RECEIVED ARE GREAT, ESPECIALLY the LADIES’,IT CAN BE SAID that they are “PERFECT”.
 WHAT IS GREAT A/W? YOU CAN SEE, THERE IS CLEAR SKEtCH WITH a DESCRIPTION FOR THE TOPSTITCHES, POCKET POSITION AND OTHER DESIGNING POINTS. THE RED WORDS ARE FOR THE UPDATED INFORMATION. IT IS useful TO HIGHLIGHT THEM.
The details are very clear
THE ACTUAL IMAGES of the product FOR SPECIAL DESIGN IS IMPORTANT AND HELPFUL during DEVELOPMENT.
 NEXT, I WANT TO TALK ABOUT THE INSPIRATION for the DESIGN. PICTUREs are helpful. they COULD DIRECTLY SHOW the FEEL of the design, AND GUIDE THE SUPPLIER during DEVELOPMENT.
Like the photo of THE DOWN jacket, THE SUPPLIER WILL KNOW HOW PUFFY IT needs to be.
FROM THE WASHED GARMENT IMAGES, THEY WILL HAVE an example of what the garment should look like, and then control the washing conditions to get that result.
FOR the BLAZER, HOW TO SELECT SHOULDER PADs IS ALWAYS CONFUSING to THE SUPPLIER. IF THERE IS AN IMAGE of THE SHOULDER SHAPE, THEY WILL GET an idea of what to do.
FOR the BLAZER’S FINISH, the IRONING PRoCESS WILL CREATe DIFFERENT EFFECTS, ESPECIALLY FOR THE LAPEL. in THE LEFT PICTURE, IT REQUIREs ironing only THE top 1/3 of the lapel. WHILE THE RIGHT ONE REQUIRES ironing further down. WHICH KIND OF EFFECT DO YOU LIKE? PLS JUST SHOW US with an IMAGE ON THE A/W.
NaTRUAL SEAM OR SEAM W/ SOME PUCKERING IS ONE OF P11’S CHARACTERistics FOR OUTDOOR WEAR. FOR THIS, PICUTRES ARE MUCH BETTER THAN ONLY WORDS. It’s BETTER TO HAVE an IMAGE OF SIMILAR FABRIC, BECAUSE THE SAME PUCKERING VOLUME ON DIFFERENT FABRIC WILL LOOK DIFFERENT.

The Second part is about the pattern.
 This is a pattern set for a men’s coat. It is really great. You can see, it includes all the information. What I want to emphasize is the fusing pattern. Most of our others don’t have a fusing pattern. We think it should be added. Because fusing is really important for the garment. Moreover the quilting line on the under collar is very helpful for sewing.
 Next, I want to discuss some tips on patterns.
1, With a shoulder forward seam, it is better to keep the actual shoulder line on the pattern. This is important for us to measure the shoulder width and neck width.
2, This page is about the sleeve cap. When topstitches are on a/h, there is no need for any slack on the slv cap. If there is, the sleeve cap will be strange with bad puckering after topstitched.
For the style with dropped slv., there is no need for slack as well. Otherwise, the slv cap will push up the shoulder.
3, Here is the sleeve cuff. The left one is from men’s shirt. You can see the buttonhole on the slit and cuff are aligned in pattern. So on the final garment, it is straight. While the right one is not aligned. And the slit on the garment is not straight. Definitely, the left one is much better, right?
4, The last one is about the pin hem on shirts. If the pin hem is sewn as one complete line from front to back, then the right pattern with smooth curve is better, and easier to sew. The left one will have a crease after sewing due to the angle on the pattern. So the right one is ideal.

FINISH NEXT CLASS

Third part is about M-list.
 Based on the current M-list, we hope to add or adjust some sizes.
1, Across chest is helpful to control front A/H shape. So suggest to add it.
2, Suggest to remove the front zipper length on m-list. Because the size for zipper length is not exactly the size on pattern. There should be some sewing ease when attaching the zipper. So the zipper length is always shorter than the size on pattern. Especially for padding style, the ease may be about 2cm. That means the zipper length will be about 2cm shorter. We could add the size for zipper position from bottom or top to control this part.
3, For the shoulder part, some M-list require the size shoulder to shoulder, while others require the shoulder seam length. We prefer to the first one, shoulder to shoulder size. Because it can control the shoulder position more effectively.
4, For pockets, it is better to have size for its position. This is appreciated for us when checking sample.
 I have met the blazer with the under button off center of front. Then the bottom size should be measured with the button opening. Otherwise the garment size will be smaller than M-list. So it is better to mark it on M-list.
 This style has gathering on the back. On the garment, the A/H depth is always smaller than required. It is due to that the bottom of a/h is lifted after finishing the gathering. For this kind of style, we suggest to measure the a/h circle or the a/h depth at front from inner shoulder.
 When shoulder forward, it is better to measure the shoulder width at the actual shoulder points i/o the shoulder seams. This is appreciated because it is much easier when measuring on garment.
 I put out this issue just hoping to get some idea from your side.
The last thing I want to discuss is about the thread. We usually use three kinds of thread: spun, core-spun and filament. I sum up the thread we usually used. According to our development, two important things I want to say: 1, the thicker thread than ticket 30# is really hard to sew on the normal machine. So we don’t suggest using ticket 25# for some ladies’ styles. 2, For silk material esp. habutai, we just suggest to use ticket 200# filament thread, because thicker thread will bring badly snagging along stitches.

That is all about my share. Welcome feedback from anyone. Thanks for your attention.